We reluctantly departed our beautiful campsite about 10am, post obligatory morning coffee (with a view). We headed for l'Estartit - on the coast about 50klms from the French border and 50klms from our Palamos camp. The riding conditions of the day were mostly lovely - although it always takes us quite a while to navigate our way out of the town and onto the bike path/correct path. Lots of hit and miss. Jamie reminded me to quote his brothers to him when his map preoccupation is out of control "Stay on the f-ing path". I used this once, but then it blew up in my face a bit after we apparently headed some way in the wrong direction.
Today's 50klm ride took us inland from Palamos to Palafrugrell and into a green field with a view of an ancient castle on a hill where we lunched on bread, octupus, tuna, salad and, of course, cheeses. We continued on through the delightful medieval village of Pals - which is all narrow winding cobbled roads, high walls, stone houses and charming flower pots: http://www.travelblog.org/Europe/Spain/Catalonia/Pals/blog-4845.html (why should I re-describe it?).
We plodded on, past St Julia and Gualta and after a slight unplanned detour (lost again) we slid into l'Estartit at about 5pm. By this stage I was flagging as I hadn't slept much and my legs, although not sore for the first time since we started cycling, were randomly refusing to peddle as fast as I wanted them to. Cycling sleepy is tricky as I found I was even more prone to riding in front of cars etc. Cycling hungover is the worst though - the first painful 20 minutes of adjustment is extended to over an hour...this really sucks. But, the wine is so good. The price you pay.
l'Estartit is a very sleepy village at the moment - beautiful coastal setting with craggy rocks and small islands just off the coast, but in serious disrepair. Coming into town we cycled for about a klm over a crumbling stone esplanade, filled with massive pot holes, loose rocks and gaps in the paving. Rattly. The village is also in disrepair - as it's not peak season, much is closed and there are workmen repairing some of the hotels/restaurants for the tourist season ahead. The town is pretty much empty, except for a few disgruntled looking (mostly German) tourists wandering aimlessly around. It took us some time to find accommodation, and we ended up hotelling it - nice beds and hot showers proved too tempting! With our bikes safely tucked away in a storeroom, we cleaned ourselves up and ventured out for feeding time. Mmmmmm more stuffed mussels and cod croquettes to start, and grilled squid for my main - Jamie opted for gratinated monkfish (Rape a la plancha gratinee) which came with gratinated potatoes - double cheesy joy! The food was delish, and we smashed down a 375ml local cava (spanish bubbly) and then a bottle of spanish musactel sauvignon blanc blend. Good times!
We're averaging (sort of ) about 50klms daily on the bikes now, and both of our bodies are starting to adjust I think. We've also re-packed our bike trailers into 'daily' and 'camp/storage' (rather than having a trailer each and sharing the camp stuff) and it's working out much better, except for the losses (sleeping bag and now Jamie's bike gear bag...oops). We have a little equilibrium going at the camp sites and just cruise through our errands as we set up/disassemble our camp site. So, all is well. Cycling a beautiful way to see Europe (probably anywhere with safe cycle routes) as you feel much more a part of the country, and get to see the tiny towns and villages and the countryside in much closer detail than you would otherwise. We get to ride between the people as they go about their daily routines, and see and smell everything close up...the hot foods, the coffee, the baking pastries and breads and the forrests smell very good...the field animals, the meat plants and the fertiliser smell very bad.
Random Daily Stats
JB falls: x 1 - amusing tangle with trailer and bike wheels while feet still in cleats. Went down in a flurry of long limbs, minor scrapes to ankle, hip and elbow. Much laughing by spectator (me).
CE falls: x 1 - dismouned bike as stopping, but unfortunatley tried to dismount over newly installed safety flag. Flag ends up wedged between legs and into face, bike is going down, all balance lost - sideways spill onto cobblestones with bike. No injuries. Much laughter JB. I also rolled my trailer today and got both feet drenched as we stupidly tried to ride up a path that had become a river.
Recipe of the region - Catalan Pa Amb Tomarquet (bread and tomatoes)
Need: Good artisan bread, garlic cloves, full flavoured sweet organic tomatoes, spanish olive oil. Other stuff.
Get the best and freshest rustic bread you can find, and toast lightly. Cut a garlic clove in half and rub it all over the bread. Cut the tomates in half lengthwise and squeeze out some juice, seeds. Rub (smash) the tomato over the bread. Drizzle with olive oil and season with sea salt/ground pepper if you want.
This simple dish I'd never have thought of is FANTASTIC! Can be eaten with anchovies, jamon (for you carnies), manchego or other cheeses or grilled vegetables....mmmmmmmm.
Today's 50klm ride took us inland from Palamos to Palafrugrell and into a green field with a view of an ancient castle on a hill where we lunched on bread, octupus, tuna, salad and, of course, cheeses. We continued on through the delightful medieval village of Pals - which is all narrow winding cobbled roads, high walls, stone houses and charming flower pots: http://www.travelblog.org/Europe/Spain/Catalonia/Pals/blog-4845.html (why should I re-describe it?).
We plodded on, past St Julia and Gualta and after a slight unplanned detour (lost again) we slid into l'Estartit at about 5pm. By this stage I was flagging as I hadn't slept much and my legs, although not sore for the first time since we started cycling, were randomly refusing to peddle as fast as I wanted them to. Cycling sleepy is tricky as I found I was even more prone to riding in front of cars etc. Cycling hungover is the worst though - the first painful 20 minutes of adjustment is extended to over an hour...this really sucks. But, the wine is so good. The price you pay.
l'Estartit is a very sleepy village at the moment - beautiful coastal setting with craggy rocks and small islands just off the coast, but in serious disrepair. Coming into town we cycled for about a klm over a crumbling stone esplanade, filled with massive pot holes, loose rocks and gaps in the paving. Rattly. The village is also in disrepair - as it's not peak season, much is closed and there are workmen repairing some of the hotels/restaurants for the tourist season ahead. The town is pretty much empty, except for a few disgruntled looking (mostly German) tourists wandering aimlessly around. It took us some time to find accommodation, and we ended up hotelling it - nice beds and hot showers proved too tempting! With our bikes safely tucked away in a storeroom, we cleaned ourselves up and ventured out for feeding time. Mmmmmm more stuffed mussels and cod croquettes to start, and grilled squid for my main - Jamie opted for gratinated monkfish (Rape a la plancha gratinee) which came with gratinated potatoes - double cheesy joy! The food was delish, and we smashed down a 375ml local cava (spanish bubbly) and then a bottle of spanish musactel sauvignon blanc blend. Good times!
We're averaging (sort of ) about 50klms daily on the bikes now, and both of our bodies are starting to adjust I think. We've also re-packed our bike trailers into 'daily' and 'camp/storage' (rather than having a trailer each and sharing the camp stuff) and it's working out much better, except for the losses (sleeping bag and now Jamie's bike gear bag...oops). We have a little equilibrium going at the camp sites and just cruise through our errands as we set up/disassemble our camp site. So, all is well. Cycling a beautiful way to see Europe (probably anywhere with safe cycle routes) as you feel much more a part of the country, and get to see the tiny towns and villages and the countryside in much closer detail than you would otherwise. We get to ride between the people as they go about their daily routines, and see and smell everything close up...the hot foods, the coffee, the baking pastries and breads and the forrests smell very good...the field animals, the meat plants and the fertiliser smell very bad.
Random Daily Stats
JB falls: x 1 - amusing tangle with trailer and bike wheels while feet still in cleats. Went down in a flurry of long limbs, minor scrapes to ankle, hip and elbow. Much laughing by spectator (me).
CE falls: x 1 - dismouned bike as stopping, but unfortunatley tried to dismount over newly installed safety flag. Flag ends up wedged between legs and into face, bike is going down, all balance lost - sideways spill onto cobblestones with bike. No injuries. Much laughter JB. I also rolled my trailer today and got both feet drenched as we stupidly tried to ride up a path that had become a river.
Recipe of the region - Catalan Pa Amb Tomarquet (bread and tomatoes)
Need: Good artisan bread, garlic cloves, full flavoured sweet organic tomatoes, spanish olive oil. Other stuff.
Get the best and freshest rustic bread you can find, and toast lightly. Cut a garlic clove in half and rub it all over the bread. Cut the tomates in half lengthwise and squeeze out some juice, seeds. Rub (smash) the tomato over the bread. Drizzle with olive oil and season with sea salt/ground pepper if you want.
This simple dish I'd never have thought of is FANTASTIC! Can be eaten with anchovies, jamon (for you carnies), manchego or other cheeses or grilled vegetables....mmmmmmmm.
